I touch down here, rush upstairs to departures, stuff my bag into a
storage locker, go to the lower level, take the keisei skyliner to
ueno, take the tokyo metro to shibuya, walk around. the city.
the streets are: full of people walking home, groups of friends saying
goodbye on a tuesday night. I feel very lonely, a salmon swimming
upstream, wading in the opposite direction. around the station there
are: people smoking, beautiful bikes with colnago frames locked up
with pencil-thin wire locks, buildings with giant displays, japanese
kids my age walking around, twenty-four hours fast food restaurants,
cabs not instantly recognizable (to me) as cabs, yakitori joints.
amidst this all the sky is dark and the lit buildings are carving a
negative space out of the sky. everyone crosses this intersection at
the same time, floods these streets. I get a sense of incredible
inclusiveness around this all, and a corresponding exclusiveness on my
part, and I feel very much like a single cell unit drifting around
these flows, looking at things. this is what happens in a complex city
with high buildings (like new york), perhaps, in a city with
recognizable traits of infrastructure (like seoul), with familiar
strains of cultural expression: ad formats, speech intonations, some
of these things like Korea but not quite at all.
in the morning, I leave my dark little internet-cafe cubicle, the
sounds of a pachinko-slot machine ringing in my ears. go out walking
in the early morning air, take the first subway train going east out
of shibuya along with everyone else, also bleary-eyed, also with
disheveled hair. on the way to tsukiji fish market I take a shortcut,
get lost on purpose, find myself on purpose. by the time I walk to the
fish market it is 5:30 am, gazed past cities of styrofoam boxes, fish
still wriggling on ice, tuna auctions, auctioned tuna being sliced
with bandsaws, rivulets of blood streaming between cobblestones, into
drains.
sushi dai has a line as always, but I only wait for about half an
hour. finally I step in and sit alone, next to the other fifteen
people there, and the same three sushi chefs are there, as they were
last year, and the year before that, and probably the years before
that. I order omakase, and with my pace, listening to my tongue, I
place each piece in my mouth and chew slowly and deliberately. I am
glad; I know I am blessed.
after that I step out and wander around ginza, its shops all closed
and still sleeping, department stores with their eyelids shut. it is
barely 7am. I take the subway to ueno, and at the last moment I divert
my footsteps into vacant market alleyways and end up near a tiny
temple. maps everywhere say that there's a lake here, but when I lift
my eyes all I can see are rows and rows of green growing from out of
the lake; a school of sluggish, sleepy koi, and a temple over there,
over there. some people practicing, stretching, talking.
on the train back to the airport, I nearly fall asleep. I wake up,
we're there. the airport dance: I take the elevator upstairs, walk to
the lockers, open the locker, get my bag, walk to a line, stand in a
line, check my bag, stand in a line for security, go through security
without taking off my shoes, stand in a line, go through customs, walk
to my gate, buy something with the rest of my yen. at the last moment
I decide to take a shower, though. it's been thirteen hours since I
first landed in narita, and I slide a 500 yen coin onto the counter
with a smile and I am shown a tiny room with a plastic shower, and in
the shower I feel hot water run down my hair and onto my back and
think about the anti-displacement that is soon to come, the sense of
having-always-been-here that will no doubt flood back in. 'as if it
were all a dream.'
and I worry about that, not about being-back-here itself (not at all)
but about the-feeling-that-I-was-always-back-here, I think about what
happens when I lose some sort of sense of movement, I think about not
always being conscious of my body, I think about not always thinking
about where I am going, I think about always being comfortable in my
skin, I think about the days and months and years slipping by until I
am then-looking-back-to-now, and I think about this (while biting my
lip). but but but but it's a thought that's also a comfort because I
also think that to think about this, actively, is to ward these things
away. and so as long as I am thinking about the possibility of not
thinking about these things I am okay, kept buoyant, floating on
clouds, air, wings, the angle of attack, the bernoulli principle, the
idea of the bernoulli principle, the airplane's trust in that the
turbine's forward thrust will result in a corresponding lift (if I
do this then you will do that, yes?), and I think that's actually
quite beautiful, wonderful, the way more things should be, could be.
--
there was this moment on the train from irkutsk to ulaanbataar when I
was so very happy, so very ecstatic and happy. the windows were down
and in the dusky distance you could see faraway clouds raining on
faraway mountains, and the sun was setting behind that, and the sky
was clear and everything in the air was so fresh, with vague whiffs of
engine smoke drifting in almost like stray strains of perfume, but the
air itself smelled like green, green grass and the trees were waving
by, everything blurred sideways like a gerhard richter painting. I was
alone that night in a cabin all by myself, and I closed the door and
turned off the light and opened my window and felt the wind brush in as
I went to sleep. once in a while opposing trains would pass our train,
which meant that suddenly the ongoing rhythm of the train would be
broken by this thunderous cataclysmic roar, lights and sound and fury,
and the cabin would light up in a scattered strobing mix of shadows
and glints-off-of-metal, and the sound and light of it would be so so visceral,
piercing my eyelids even when my eyes were closed. and then everything
would be over, as soon as it had started.
and then if you went out into the dark hallway because you couldn't sleep,
everyone else was also there, leaning out of the window, gazing into
the distance, quieted into contemplation by the rocking motion of the
train and the sudden change of landscape and the expanse of sky and
the enormity of all the clouds. watching the sun set. I was so very
content, so very content and happy just to be there, to be there and
going somewhere. I would have been content had the train broken down
and stopped; I would have been content had we been going faster. I was
just content to be there, moving.
I haven't and hadn't had that in a bit, such fully-fledged
contentedness, such warmth, and now it is no longer available right
now except as an abstract memory, it is not possible right now, having
come back. all I can do is to think about it and to smile and to
swallow hard and to try to forget it, until the next time I am able to
travel like that, to take that same trip again, hopefully, sometime in
the future. right now all I can do is to look out the window for the
curve in the bend coming ahead and have my hair whipped around in the
wind. so that is what I will do.
thirty minutes away from jay eff kay, thirty minutes away from a home.
here's to hoping that the routines don't just fall into place but that
they drop down, slightly mis-aligned, de-calibrated, un-synchronized,
making something anew, maybe maybe maybe hopefully.